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LURCH TO VIENNA
Notes from the geographically dyslexic
RENATO REDENTOR CONSTANTINO
24 August 2007, 0800 -- Onboard one of Europe's most efficient, super quick ICE trains -- Inter-City Express -- which the European Rail Guide said have managed "to slice hours off the journey times between popular destinations such as Hamburg in the far north of the country and Munich nestled in the south." The high speed train I'm on, which can go at speeds of up to 175 mph, has just left Amsterdam. I'm supposed to arrive in Vienna after around 12 hours, but a tiny cosmic quirk means first I have to change more trains than I counted on.
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As an exasperated, wincing train official who checked my ticket told me, now I will have to await the announcement that is supposed to tell me (likely in Dutch or German) if I am to disembark in Cologne or in Frankfurt. From there, she said, I will have to locate the train bound for Munich, and then from there another long lurch to Salzburg, and then Vienna.
"Good luck sir," she said.
Lovely.
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My heart leapt at the ICE woman's words and I almost stood up to order a beer for breakfast before I reminded myself to stay awake. I settled for coffee and the sandwich in my bag.
The train hurtles through the morning and the sounds inside the coach are muffled. Outside, the fog is growing thicker and has seemingly forced the train to reduce speed. I see a legion of crows flying across a field dotted with clusters of horses and lumbering cows with colors so stark in mottled black and splashes of white and grey they look as if they were lifted straight out of milk cartons.
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The sky is clear again and the scene outside the window has acquired the familiar feel of an old movie reel. Images whiz by but the eyes see far away, prowl other things.
Every now and then train officials march down the corridor of our carriage with a scowl on their faces. Germans and the Dutch are known to get upset over delays of a single minute or two; their feet nervously tap the ground or they furtively glance at watches and clocks. I can't imagine what this trip was like for them, especially the officials: our departure from Amsterdam was delayed for 45 minutes...
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India somehow also taps me on the shoulder, whispering that the sitar is no less accurate than the violin and that the same provenance of time governs both instruments, though Slowness and Speed, two extremely upright fellows, take longer to chat and exchange lecherous notes each time they meet. #
Photos by Redster, who is smitten with the red trams of Vienna, such as the one in the last pic. They could've been blue or yellow and they would have still been just as timeless and elegant...
1 comment:
It was a good thing yu made it to Viena, Red. And I blame privatization for the increasing delays on Europe's trains. Now that profit rules, accuracy and punctuality are, increasingly, a thing of the past. That said, the ICE is truly wonderful. The best I know in the world. And they serve a decent wheat beer (Koenig Ludwig) in the ICE restaurant. Try it next time!
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